Lat: 32.299441666667000, Long: -9.242408333333300

Safi [Safim, Çafi]

North Africa, Marocco

Historical Background and Urbanism

As the African coast was being discovered, the settlements on the southern coast of Morocco increased in importance. Among them, the city of Safi was probably the most populatous, the most cosmopolitan, the wealthiest, and even the most independent of them all. It was a city that the Portuguese frequented, knew well and used as a stop to buy the fabrics that they sold and traded on the Gulf of Guinea.
Theoretically the city depended on the “king” of Marrakesh, but in the late 15th century it had a more or less independent status; hence it was in a constant state of destructive internal struggle. The networks, social groups and individuals confronting each other for power in the city had a variety of aims: there were groups in favour of a stronger link to the Portuguese while others favoured Castile; there were groups that were strongly opposed to trade with the Christian infidels, while others supported it; there were tribes and peoples in the city who believed that their safety could only be ensured through a close tie to the power of Marrakesh. In effect, the possibilities and the reality were always creating reasons for confrontation.
Perhaps because of this, at least before the 28th August 1481, King Afonso V had accepted to be regarded as the protector of the city, which meant facilitated trade for the Portuguese. It is this situation that King João II confirms on the 16th October 1488 in a letter he wrote to the mayor of Safi accepting a renewal of the agreement.
We must note that despite the ease of trade and the constant presence of Portuguese traders in the city, there was still no fixed Portuguese trading depot in Safi at least until November 1479. Eustache de la Fosse, who arrived at Safi then, witnessed that the Portuguese overseers had come into the city to make their deals and waited for the ships that would take them back to Portugal. That is, the trading depot was truly itinerant.
It would only be in the reign of King João II that a house “resembling a castle in which there is an overseer” was built (Cénival); this marked the start of a period of solid Portuguese presence in the city. From 1491 onwards, however, there are many documents about the trading depot and for sure it had a chapel and chaplain.
The definitive conquest of the city only took place in 1508 when Diogo da Azambuja, sent by the king to pacify the city, having seen the way things were going, decided to take over. This decision is connected to the turmoil that had spread across the city at the time with the various groups at loggerheads.
It is not surprinsingly that, once the city was taken a group of Moors, clearly in favour of the Portuguese presence, remained in Safi for several years; these were the so-called Moors of peace, who took advantage of the new situation while they could. After the death in 1519 of one of the best-known leaders of these Moors favourable to the Portuguese, Alcaide Yahya ben Tafuft, began the slow process of decline in the Portuguese presence in Safi. It is certain that the constant pillage – of cattle, tools and crops – by the Portuguese did not help them to consolidate their position but it is also true that this was not an unfamiliar way of life in the region.
As will be seen, in the construction of the trading depot and its fortification, the Portuguese built an imposing defensive system which encompassed a great system of walls and two castles. As they settled they built other structures which can still be visited in Safi nowadays and which are especially valued by the present day residents of the city.
After these relatively successful initial years, with the emergence of the Saadite shariffs in the region of Suz and the loss of Agadir and Souira Qedima in 1541, King João III had no choice but to order the abandonment of the city, which he did that very year. This decision was only taken after much consultation instigated by the king; most of those consulted were against the abandonment of Safi, or at least had serious doubts, especially because of the wider significance of a Portuguese withdrawal. But the costs and the risks were too high to maintain this settlement.

Filipe Themudo Barata

Military Architecture

Urbanism

Present Rue du Souk (probably Rua Direita in Portuguese times)

Religious Architecture

Equipment and Infrastructures

Customs House

Housing

Doorways and Doors