Cathedral

Safi [Safim, Çafi], North Africa, Marocco

Religious Architecture

The Portuguese Cathedral in Safi has been known since 1871; later (1929), it was the subject of an interesting study by Pierre de Cénival.
This interesting piece of architecture continues to be visited today because many of its elements are still recognizable. Its finely vaulted chancel still stands, as well as the chapel on the right hand side, though without its vault, although the springers of the ribs can still be seen. The chancel has a rectangular plan (8.20 x 7.20 metres) and an entrance arch resting upon small columns, backing onto the abutments, very typical of Boytac. The entrance bay is imposing, measuring 6.20 metres.
The most interesting element is probably the vaulting, whose ribs support nine bosses with designs that tell part of the story of the visit of the Portuguese to the city. On the central boss, the shield of King Manuel, the monarch who took and fortified the city; the radiating bosses feature some symbols of this stage of Portuguese expansion: one with the Cross of the Order of Christ, a second with the armillary sphere, another with the episcopal coat of arms of João Subtil, the only bishop in Safi that lived there and gave part of the money for its construction, another with the keys of Saint Peter, three with naturalistic leaves and one of which the original design has disappeared.
The Cathedral must have had an initial design by the inspector of works Jorge Machado, who stayed in Safi between 1517 and 1521, and by master builder João Luís. According to sources, the project was assessed and adapted, probably by one of the Arruda brothers.
The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation has prepared a rehabilitation project which was offered to the Moroccan authorities in 2010.

• Filipe Themudo Barata